I read about Ze Varunca in Travel & Leisure and it sounded wonderful - not touristy, very authentic, simple, yet excellent food. It was all that and more. So charming, with Portuguese ceramics adorning the tables. Our only mistake is that we went at 8:30pm (on a Monday), and it doesn't fill up until after 9pm. But we didn't mind being the first ones there - there are only 10 tables, so we were assured of a reservation.
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