I would say the Belem Castle is a "must see" attraction and for that reason I am happy to have visited. However we found the tram 15 from Praca do commercio a real pain. Not on time and very very over crowded. Also the tram stopped half way there and we had to vacate due to an accident. However as we were not in a rush we took our time, sat in a local cafe and discovered another route. The buses took us there in the end. The bus stop to actual Belem tower is a good 20 mins walk, albeit a nice scenic stroll along the waterfront with great views of the bridge and Christ statue. The castle itself is quite cute, we didn't bother to pay to go inside or up as we had already seen great views from going up the christ statue.
Worth a visit if you have time, but allow for a few transport hitches and take your time to get there and back just in case.
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