When Four Seasons and Ritz Carlton conjoin on a premium property, you get a vintage hotel experience that appears to get better with time.
Unobtrusively perched on one of the claimed "seven hills" of Lisbon, the unassuming side street short driveway approach belies the marbled opulence of the public areas that dazzle the eye after you are ushered in by an exceptionally warm and hospitable entrance staff. The lofty site provides hotel guests with fortuitous views of the hotel gardens, the Tagus River, the Alfama, the Eduardo VII Park, the Harbor, the Basilica da Estrela and the Marques de Pombal Square. And if you hit the outstanding rooftop Running Track/Fitness Center, you can drink in all those glorious vistas at your all-around leisurely or sporty pleasure.
This is a 5-star Bourbon French-Art Deco adorned modern hotel whose Foyer and enormous Almada Negreiros Lounge are lavishly bedecked with striking exotic floral arrangements, etched gold frescoes and a museum-worthy private collection of last-century Portuguese paintings, sculptures, and tapestries.
A Bar area discreetly tucked away beside the even more discreet small shopping corridor offers a short menu of casual items served with flair, an apparently do-it-yourself piano and occasional run-ins with the likes of Al Franken. The humorous warmth of the Bar staff was manifested by their unasked proffering of switch-out white linen service that allowed us to sit there and feast on our "Time Out Food Hall" Stall take-outs with the measured flourish of the Varanda Restaurant.
Hotel service is peerless, especially as provided by the Concierge staff, especially the most senior gentleman thereof who unerringly and courteously facilitated the activities of our 5-night stay there, including an introduction to the delights of fado - and the iconic singer Amalia Rodrigues. The 24-hour laundry/dry cleaning service is outstanding.
This hotel is a favorite of high-end tour groups, who crowd the Foyer most mornings before being herded onto their buses. As such, the "Superior" rooms (otherwise known as the Standard room in less lofty venues) which cluster the first 8 (or 10?) floors of the property along with the Premium rooms (floors 1-6) appear to bear the wearing brunt of heavy usage. Nonetheless, this property remains the grand dame of Lisboa's accommodations ... her service staff are pearls of the first order.