Our hosts at Casa Pombal, a charming old-world guest house with dark wood and narrow stairs, recommended we visit the Fado Center for an authentic performance of Coimbra fado music -- which all male by long tradition in this bustling university town. The music, too, is different than in other parts of Portugal. The singer, whose father was a fado singer before him, had a fantastic, emotionally moving voice and was accompanied by two equally talented musicians, one playing a fado guitar. This music captures the soul of the country and should not be missed.
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