...but in a very good way. The old building nestled nicely into the city walls, just a hundred metres from the amazing aqueduct. The owners had exposed much of the old stone inside the dining area. We were amongst just a few other diners, but it was well off-season in mid-December. The food was unaffected by the scarcity of clients. The only off-point was the initial musty smell of the place--like all the typical bad drains of Europe. It wore off after a few minutes--that is, you got used to it and it faded into the background. We started with spinach soup, quite nice and creamy, not too salty (a common Portuguese cooking fault). I had fresh spinach with parmesan slivers and tangy mustard--quite intriguing. My partner had a beef filet with a mushroom risotto--there is some rice growing in Portugal, and quite decent stuff. I had a shrimp fettucine and cherry tomatoes, quite tangy cheese and nciely cooked overall. A regional wine was a great slurp--a Castello red, nice and fruity, no acid. Overall, a great visit, and a beautiful evening walk home to the centre along the inside of the old wall (about 30 minutes).
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