We visited this church just as it opened, as a part of a tour group, so got in quite efficiently. Be forewarned; it was very crowded and quite noisy, but there is a LOT to see and explore. The real reason most people go is of course for the Rubens, but I was far more fascinated by the restoration work going on. Apparently the church was not originally just plain stone, but elaborately and brilliantly painted. The work that has not been done gives hints of what is to come, whilst parts that are complete are simply breath-taking.
I am recommending 2-3 hours for a visit, but if you like to putter and explore you could spend many hours.
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