Crowded - yes; touristic - for sure; a lot of restaurants, cafes, bars, shops - yes...but what do you want from one of the most popular entertaining places in Amsterdam? Everything you need among all above-mentioned you'll definitely find here.
And it's much better and cleaner than Dam square which I don't like at all.
Don't miss Leidseplein, it's a part of Amsterdam's spirit.
If you want to place yourself in the quiet area - just run away from here.