We rented an apartment on the Oltrarno side of the river in July 2012 and it was lovely -- far less choked with tourists, amazing food, beautiful back streets, and yet comfortably close to absolutely everything. Definitely recommend!
Even if you're not staying here, be sure to check out the fantastic food on this side of the river -- especially great restaurants can be found on Via Santo Spirito and Borgo San Jacopo!
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