We went to Le Volpi e l'Uva—barely a stone's throw from Ponte Vecchio, but an oasis from the tourist madness—because an Italian colleague recommended it as a nice place to get a crisp glass of Italian wine, along with some expert advice, before dinner. We got the glass of wine—a Verdicchio for us both—and the advice, and a plate of Tuscan charcuterie to go with. And then we decided that we were so happy with the wine and the advice and the food that we'd make our dinner there, as we did with another lovely glass of wine—Colli Orientali Friulano—and a plate of smoked trout. The discovery and the oasis and the wine and the food all made for a perfect evening.
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