Mostly when you enter any religious building of any faith, you can feel the religious conviction and fervour of those who built it, and the continuity from them to the present-day congregation. This cathedral was oppressive, dark and dismal inside, and reminded us of all that has been bad throughout the ages and even recently with the Catholic Church. Yes, there is elaborate artwork and architecture, but how much of it was paid for by sins being forgiven by priests more interested in their own church and closed world than seeing good in the world? There were requests in many places for donations, my lack of Italian didn't enable me to know what for, but I decided to give directly to the beggar outside as I doubt that the church was caring much for him.
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