I spent four nights in Vernazza. I stayed in a room overlooking the bay and even though it was a "10 story walk up" I could hear the waves rambling to the shore. The town is busier during the day but after 5pm and until 10am you have the place to yourself and the locals. My most memorable night was the night before a storm was predicted and myself along all the town folk watched the men bring all the fishing boats from the bay into the central plaza. Their precision and elegance in bringing the boats ashore rivaled that of any "corp du balet" it was delightful. I hiked Vernazza to Monteroso, it was not the shortest trail but well worth the views. Food was great espeially the trofie with basil, breakfast was what the locals were having delicious custard filled rolls and coffee , lunches were away from town. I also visited Portovenere(by ferry) and Portofino(by train) and the other villages except fot Corniglia. I am glad I chose Vernazza my home base and would recommend it without any reserve, it was truly enchanting.
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