This restaurant is a paradise of lovable oddness. The family who owns the hotel support every kind of programme that celebrates regional and seasonal Italian food. They're part of the Unione Buoon Ricordo, which means that if you order the local special main course, you'll be given a souvenir ceramic plate to take home. (I did. The dish was a rabbit croquette, and it was great). But my husband got he piece de resistance. He ordered the steak tartare and it arrived on a glass box containing hay. Earphones were attached, and the soundtrack to accompany his meal played cowbells and mooing. A splendid bit of theatre.
And top marks on the wine list. All carefully selected and highly distinctive—you can't go wrong.