Unforgettable oenophile and Culinary Destination. We imbibed the singularly delicious and rare Fiorano Bianco, deep in amber and delicious: "the taste of chestnuts in autumn!" remarked the sommelier, and dined on carbonara, caccio e pepe, ciccoria (absolutely delicious, a slightly wild and peppery fibrous green). The restaurant's specialty, is Coda alla Vaccinara, a signature dish at Checchino dal 1887. Coda alla Vaccinara is oxtail, and the owner Francesco's brother, Chef Elio has marinated it for seven hours reducing to the most delicious tomato sauce I've ever tasted. In fact, I've never encountered a tomato sauce more intense and concentrated, more deep, dark, rich and flavorful than at Checchino's. Later we learned that chocolate had been added to the sauce as well! An absolutely superb destination dish and the combination with Fiorano Bianco utterly devine. Dining at Checchino dal 1887 is the archetypal culinary experience of a lifetime, the Coda alla Vaccinara stunningly delicious with its magnificent sauce and falling-off-the-bone meat. Checchino dal 1887 is located next to the ancient slaughterhouse site in Testaccio and is famous for its Quinto Quarto offal offerings. Don't miss Checchino's Rigatoni alla Pajata and superb Abbachio Scottadito, both worth a trip on their own merits. Fabulous food, wine and service. We were invited afterwards to visit Checchino's unbelievable wine cellar housed amid the chards of ancient Rome in Testaccio. One of Rome's most memorable dining experiences and I can't wait to return.
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