This is surely among the most interesting churches and historical attractions in Rome. Below the church are older historical layers that you can visit for a fee. We visited this place in 2009, after failing to find time for it on our previous visits in 2003 and 2006. I was mildly interested beforehand and did not expect how engaging the whole experience could be.
The church itself is an interesting sight of the Middle Ages and a good point of comparison with Santa Maria in Trastevere, our favourite church in Rome. There are a lot of commonalities. Actually I find myself regretting that we didn't visit this place during our recent visit! One time is not enough for so rich and multifaceted a place. Especially the Mithraeum was an intriguing sight, as the cult has always been very interesting to me, although I know far too little about it.
Remember to take a stroll in the park of the Domus Aurea north of this place!
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