We got off to a bad start. Calling ahead we could not reserve a table ('mesa') because they did no such thing. Fair enough. But while we waited in line at the door, 2 other parties were seated before us 'because they had requested a mesa' (as opposed to standing at the bar when no mesa is available). Anyway. The place has a reputation, probably in part because it has not updated its ways or interior for 30 years. Tile-covered, air filled with grease, a soccer game quietly playing on a screen in the corner, waiters running around trying to get everyone what they need. The menu is full of mushrooms, which is interesting. We had two mushroom dishes, which were not spectacular. The black 'Trompetas de la muerte' (Trumpets of Death) did not kill us but we did not finish them anyway. The steak (Lomo) came without anything, not even some sauce, and was overcooked. The wine was great, though, and not expensive at all. To cut a long story short: go if you're in to watch a folksy Madrid phenomenon; do not go if you're in for a romantic dinner-for-two.
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