When you want to go back to your off the beaten path hotel, seems you never did enough research about the local restaurants. My hotel was minimally helpful here (Villa Emilia) , but La Clara was a gem. Fabulous food, good prices, mannerly wait staff.
Hidden. Costs: if you want tapas, don't let them send you downstairs to the restaurant. Specials may not be available after 10 PM. Food traditional and lovely. No rush to enjoy these late diners out. Did I mention table cloths? They are white .