This is very special place and all I thought it would be. We were in high season but it wasn't as crowded as I expected. Most of the people gather at the main gate to have their picture taken with the lizard but other than that it was not crowded at all. We took the bus to the back entrance and had a nice stroll through the shaded areas with great views. There are musicians scattered around in the shady areas that seem to be permitted but souvenir sellers who seem to be illegal as every so often you see them fold up and run off.
The walk down to the Lespes metro stop is not easy and very hard for my 8 year old. I am so happy we took the bus to the back entrance and did not try to climb up to the park. You can take bus 24 from Passige de Gracia and 91 from near Sagrada familia. The bus winds around a bit but you can't miss the stop as it is a big tourist bus parking lot and half the bus gets off there.
Remember to take a hat and water, and use sunscreen.More