I spent four nights in Lubeck in November, and it's been one of the best breaks I have ever had.
Admittedly, it wasn't all perfect - there was driving rain when I arrived, to find that the town bus didn't leave from the airport but from the main road, and later that evening there were gale-force winds. My umbrella didn't survive... but everything else made up for that.
I'd booked a room in a private house - Privatzimmer Grote 1 - via the Lubeck Tourism website - and can recommend it. It's a restored house, built about 1500, with two rooms to rent, on a lane leading off the Obertrave (the walk beside the river), very close to everything, but a quiet area.. I had the double room for single occupancy - a comfortable, spacious room, with some antique furniture, and an excellent bathroom. Breakfasts were served under the portrait of an 18th-century gentleman (in the summer, they are served in a little sheltered garden) and were exceptional - a fruit platter, several types of bread or rolls, a boiled egg, a platter of cold meats, cheeses and smoked salmon, yogurt and coffee. Everything was beautifully presented.
There is plenty to do in Lubeck, and I'd recommend getting the "happy-day card" from the tourist office - about €15 for 3 days, but giving discounts on a lot of attractions, and free local bus and rail transport.
I walked round the city centre the first afternoon, and discovered that Lubeck is "the city of short distances".The first evening I went to a service at the Marienkirche, the largest Medieval church in Lubeck, because it was a feast-day and three cantatas by Buxtehude were being performed (he was the organist there in the late 17th century) It was excellent - a small baroque orchestra and choir.
After the service I had a local speciality in the Yachtzimmer restaurant on the Obertrave - Labskaus - it's a type of corned beef hash, made with beetroot instread of potato, with a fried egg on top. It was a fisherman's dish, and traditionally contains herring, but in this case the herring was served with some salad as a side dish. It was delicious, warm and comforting for a cold, wet night. I had carp here another night - served simply with boiled potatoes and accompaniments of grated horseradish and cream to make the sauce to your own taste. Food in general was excellent, and prices were reasonable - I recommend the Stadtbackerei Junge - the local bakery/coffee shop - for snacks or indulgent gateau and coffee for about €3!
There are a number of museums in Lubeck, all were interesting although in some cases captions are only in German. I enjoyed the archeological museum, and the Holstentor, which deals with the history of the city (although there are a lot of steep spiral staircases in it, so you need to be fit!) The medieval churches are all well worth looking at - the Marienkirche and the Dom (cathedral) are the largest. Both were extensively damaged during the war and in the cathedral there is a series of photos showing the restoration process.
The museum highlight for me was the St. Annen - a museum in a former convent with a modern art section and a huge exhibit of medieval church art in the cloisters (and an ex
cellent little restaurant).
I took a trip to Travemunde one morning - the sun was shining, and I was able to walk along the beach, and returned to shop in the Huxstrasse - which has lots of small shops, and to look into the "gangs" - little alleyways which are very much a part of the Lubeck townscape.
I'd recommend Lubeck for music-lovers - I went to the opera on 2 nights, and saw excellent performances of Andrea Chenier and Un Ballo in Maschero.
I will be back - four days were not long enough to see everything!