Had long wanted to try this restaurant and finally made it there. We came one of the last evenings before the holidays so I felt lukcy that we even got a table. We chose the so-called "small" flavour treatment (I should add that even though they call it small, you won't leave hungry) consiting of three small hors d'oeuvres, four regular courses as well as an entremet and petits fours.
We skipped champagne and chose instead a bottle of 2013 Riesling Merler Königslay Terrassen GG from Kallfelz, Mosel. One of the best Rieslings I've ever had. Creamy and full-bodied yet straight and complex with notes of exotic fruits such as nectarines and apricots. Lovely, and it went well with our dinner.
The three small appetizers were limes meringue with sorrel and beats, eel from the Baltics and iced jerusalem artichoke and a personal favorite smoked salmon with miso, tamarind and onion juice. Served one at the time at a nice pace (not too fast or slow). All brilliant.
First course was like a picture. In a plate, arranged like a seabed, was a gillardeau oyster poached in champagne, crab tatar in jelly, horseradish starfish, and in a sea urchin's shell was what I think was oyster tatar with a seaweed chip. Beautiful to both see and taste. Then came the best dish of the evening: turbot with smoked bone marrow small steamed leeks, ginger vinaigrette and best of all, Oscietre caviar.
Rose pigeon breast with morrels followed. Splendid.
A small entrement of raspberry and Riesling granité was delightful. The dessert itself was probably - in our view - the weak point of the evening. A hollow sourrdough crisp with burrata, strawberry ice and with verbena. I would have preferred a bit more freshness in the dish, but that is a matter of taste of course. Finally small petits fours.
Service was attentive, polite, enthusiastic and completely down to earth. We felt the welcoming atmosphere from start to finish. Before leaving chef Christoph Rüffer came to greet the guests. On the way out we were given the menu in an envelope and some very nice chocolate for later. Haerlin certainly keeps an extremely high standard; classic and modern, creative and very talented.