First of all - the waiter was very friendly and explained all the courses very well. Unfortunately out of the 6 course menu only 2 of the dishes were on an excellent level. The lesser four were either just pretentious for the sake of being pretentious or were matched with the wrong type of wine. The biggest problem was the serving time. 45 minutes to first disha, and then 30 min between each dish.
Let's break down the menu:
- Amouse bouche: The AB should be an easy to eat mouthful - instead we get a "deconstructed" gazpacho in four parts. Setting aside the breaking of the AB format, the tastes were really bland. The tomato water did nothing and the hacked tomatos and onions tasted like out of a can.
- 1st course: Herring - overwhelmingly strong in taste, but still not that different from what you get from a can. Killes the palate and totally overruns the other things on the plate. Coupled with a really aged riesling that almost tastes like a chardonnay.
- 2nd course: Foie gras with lavender sorbet - Great idea to pair lavender sorbet with foie gras - the combination works. Unfortunately I have seldom tasted a foie gras with such a lack of taste. It lacked all of the mustiness a foie gras typically enbodies. Coupled with a really sweet wine, which in my opion is a mistake since the Lavender sorbet is already quite sweet and makes the whole experience with the wine a somewhat overly-sweet one.
- 3rd course: Sardine - much the same as the herring. overpowering everything else on the plate.
- 4th course: The Pelmeni with smetana - very good dish. Musty, clear tastes, great consistency. Coupled with a rosé wine which is unfortunately somewhat of a mistake. A red wine would absolutely have been the correct and obvious choice here. But again, this seems to be a matter of being pretentious just for the sake of it.
- 5th course: Veal with artichokes and capers - again a very good dish. Very thought out taste and combination.
- 6th course: Dessert - this was the absolute low of this place: The icecream that was served between dry store-shelf wafers was flaky-icy, gone bad in the freezer downright. We told this to the servant and no apology or other reaction was received. The smoked cherry was interesting but alone the only interesting thing on the plate. Paired with a very very sweet wine.
Overall - if the fish dishes were more balanced and the wines served were thought out more carefully, this menu could get a better score. As it is now, no go. And this small dishes must come at faster pace. 30 min. between small fine-dining dishes is faar too long.
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