This boulevard, beloved of paintings and novelists, is lovely when the lime trees are in full bloom. But in high summer, it gets very not. In winter, it's unbearably ugly. Why do tourists flock to it? Hurry towards the eastern end where historical buildings amass - museums, Humboldt, churches, palaces. But be warned: in winter, it's grey, windy, muddy or dusty, no shelter, cranes every corner, and full of tourists traps.
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