L'acceuil (welcome) can manifest itself in many ways from frostily xenophobic to the warm and generous. No 27 in Limoge is the latter: delighted by an imaginative, modern restaurant and committed, charming service from young waiters. The decor and menu are contemporary. The walls are hung with paintings by Edwige Col - think pop art gone zombie. But there is no aroma of the living dead here. Chef-owner Giles Dudognan - he runs three other interesting restos in Limoge - interpreted classic dishes with a new flair. We ate and drank well for 62€. We are in theHaute Vienne, so beef from the beautiful blond Limousin cattle is essential: steak tartare subtly spiced; bavette properly cooked (that is to say, well-done for an English taste) and a magical gratin dauphinois. And then there are the desserts,made to order and accompanied by intriguing sorbets. Clearly, we loved it. We loved the accueill too.
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