I’d read some of the reviews so I called in on spec on a cold Wednesday evening to find it fully booked - they have just 28 covers. The chef-patron apologised and suggested I book for the following evening. I am very glad I took his advice. There is no menu, the focus is on fish and the patron describes the choice of two entrees and two main dishes. I chose the house speciality of brandade de morue - an emulsion of salt cod, a touch of garlic and olive oil. Neither creamed potato nor cream is added. The flavour comes from the fish and the top quality olive oil. Just delicious.
My main dish was a fricasse of octopus on a bed of baby veg - carrots, green beans and a couple of small potatoes, topped with crispy onion. One of the best seafood dishes I have ever eaten. I chose a 50cl bottle of white from the Duchy of Uzes, a bargain at €17. For dessert a lime sorbet with crystallised ginger was tangy and an ideal palate cleanser. The service was excellent, M. le patron is clearly focussed on making sure that his guests appreciate what he has to offer. My bill was €55. I have often had less enjoyable meals at double that price. Will I go again? Yes, indeed, but don’t go on spec.