In two dinners in one week at this lovely restaurant just off the Boulevard St. Germain, my wife and I gloried in the absolutely ethereal French bistro cooking of old: big slabs of well-seasoned terrine de fois gras with fig jam and country toast, haricots verts with crayfish, vinaigrette, and lots of seasoning, the freshest of bar (sea bass) grilled atop very fresh peas, spinach, turnips, and other vegetables with a great sauce, the lightest of homemade small raviolis dauphinois in a chafing dish with melted cheese and seasonings, parmentier of duck confit (a layer of tender, flavorful, slow-cooked duck) topped with a slice of hot fois gras and bottomed with mashed potatoes surrounded by a moat of rich brown sauce, and finally a cast-iron pot of slow-roasted pork cheeks, vegetables, and a sweet, spicy, complex sauce. All were excellent and made us realize how deprived we are in the U.S., or when we go to Provence or the French Riviera, of these tender, fully-seasoned, richly-sauced entrees - with no foam, vapor, or overly pretentious presentations. We accompanied these two dinners with very reasonably priced bottles of dry riesling and Bergerac white wines - really delicious. Our desserts of a molten chocolate cake and a newly-made creme brûlée were just right. The service was friendly and quick. We couldn't have asked for a more delightful evening either visit.
