(That's yum-yum in French, and his creations are way beyond yummy.) This is a crowded group of food stalls down an alleyway off Rue de Bretagne. It was confusing for us first-timers who spoke no French, but interestingly so. There is an excellent-seeming Moroccan place, an organic French place, a decent-looking Italian place, a Japanese stall where the grilled sardines were delicious, and many other places. They all pale in comparison to the creations of Alain. People stand in line for 45 minutes or more for one of his grilled sandwiches, crepes, or galettes, and for good reason. I am gluten-sensitive, so when I learned he would make a buckwheat galette, I was thrilled. We asked for his recommendation, and he whipped up a huge buckwheat crepe which he then filled with a very savory fresh salad of lettuce, basil, tomatoes, and other tasty stuff, lots of parmesan shavings, and slices of prosciutto. Forget about your football-sized burritos or your favorite California wrap, this is a food experience on a different order. The balance of flavors, the warm crispness of the buckwheat wrapper, the abundance of the ingredients. . . I can't recommend this highly enough. It is the kind of experience that travel is all about for me--encountering something I couldn't have dreamed of exactly if I had stayed home.