I love walking through this cemetery. This was my second visit, and I found Rick Steve's Paris guide to be very helpful in finding the graves. Even the crematorium is interesting. Seeing the graves of Abelard and Heloise, Chopin, Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas, Oscar Wilde and others is a history lesson. Even more touching are the memorials to the war dead and victims of the Nazi concentration camps. On a chilly November day, the paths in the cemetery were lined with beautiful pots of mums in addition to the floral displays on individual graves--a testament to the honor paid to the deceased. We found starting at the entrance near the Gambetta metro stop and ending at the Pere LaChaise station was more convenient than vice versa. I highly recommend you include this site in your visit to Paris, even if you think cemeteries ghoulish.
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