La Belle Hortense combines bookshop and tiny bar with a lively yet comfortable atmosphere on the 4th's ever happening rue Vieille du Temple. If the Paris of your adolescent imaginings contained books and wine (or if you've just watched Woody Allen's 'Midnight in Paris') walk right in, don't be intimidated, order a drink and grab a seat at the tiny bar (or stand on the footpath if there isn't one to be had). This place looks the part and with glass in hand so will you. Watch the evening pass by. Wander across the road later to le petit fer au cheval for dinner.
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