This épicerie-and-wineshop-and bistro is a hop and a skip from the Canal St. Martin. Food is served in three rather cramped rooms and the (Sun)day I was there a birthday party occupied that housing the wine, making it impossible to see what they had on offer. There is no wine list: there is a 7 euro surcharge for drinking what you buy there, making a St Joseph a pretty good deal at 24 + 7 = 31 euros. We were in the room at the back where there are sofas and easy chairs which I don't really like. Brunch was available but none of us opted for it; we ate à la carte and ate very well, not surprisingly perhaps given that one of those running the place worked with Guy Savoy. The starters and puds were outstanding: included beetroot mousse, lobster and prawn flan, poached eggs with ceps; later admirable cheese cake and little beignets with prune liqueur. My boeuf bourguignon was a bit dry but there was high praise for confit de canard and ravioles dauphiné. I can see some would find the service, by two rushed waiters, offhand and you book for when suits them but we found it pleasant and affable and there was no effort to rush us after two hours à table. Not especially cheap with two bottles of wine, water and coffees but a place to which to return.
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