Booked this for my special birthday meal while we were on holiday. Make sure you confirm your booking on the day or day before. The restaurant is located in the historic heart of the city in a lovely little pedestrian street. It's a tiny place and has fewer than 20 covers. Its not a complicated or overlong menu and it was nice to just relax, sit back and order the six courses with matching wines.
After the obligatory champagne for my birthday we had an amuse of pea veloute with mint coriander and some white fish on top - lovely and refreshing. Next came three fish courses - first a sea bream tartare with pickled cucumber, which I loved. Then tuna with a cabbage and carrot slaw that was in a wasabi cream - the hint of wasabi was delicate and not at all overpowering and worked excellently. To finish the fish courses John Dorey was served with very fined diced cauliflower, broad beans and a sweet and sour chilli sauce - again a perfect balance of ingredients.
Meat course was pork that was served with a broccoli puree and tiny carrots, while it was good it was my least favourite course. The cheese course was just two different cheeses but served in good quantities - a comte and a very soft goats cheese that had been worked on - both were lovely and it came with cooked cherries - a gorgeous and unusual presentation that I really enjoyed.
Pudding was raspberry sorbet with redcurrants and redcurrant jelly with a coconut milk - again delicious and very refreshing. We finished with coffees and a little rhubarb panna cotta with ginger Chantilly.
The standard of the cooking was excellent. Service is done by the chefs wife alone and so while it was very efficient and professional she understandably doesn't have time to chat - I didn't mind this at all but I notice that others have interpreted this as a lack of warmth.
The Japanese influences on the cooking were very well done, subtle but definitely there and it does make this place stand out from many other Michelin restaurants. I can't recommend highly enough and would love to return.
Two days later we ate at Le Gavroche, which had newly acquired a Michelin star - the two places were very different and the contrasts were interesting - both were excellent though.
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