We tried their lunchtime/pre-theatre menu which, at £16.50 for two courses of dishes that clearly aimed at fine dining looked too good value to be true.
But sometimes good things are true and so was the case for the Mulroy. Between us we had four dishes made with evident culinary skills, pretty dense with ingredients and flavours, but all superbly well balanced. Especially notable was a starter of rabbit rillette with chicory, pickled cucumber tartare and walnut vinaigrette, and with a 'fugasse' (a type of Provencale bread) on the side. The other starter, a lamb, was also very good but the 'pie' enclosing the meat was a bit too heavy for me, though a hint of asparagus and a chutney lightened and balanced the dish considerably. There was also a lovely pig trotter 'carpaccio'.
The mains were a beef shin and a braised pig cheek. The latter was glorious in the moisture if its fat yet not heavy, very nicely matched by a venison sausage, a potato 'dauphine' with herbs, and broccoli, in a dark, well made jus. The shin was also supremely tender and moist, the jus just lacking a bit of depth in my opinion, but a croquette with polenta and oregano was so lovely that it could have been the central ingredient itself!
Prices, as I said, are excellent for this quality. The room is something unique, a labour of love where every object is interesting, a room that reflects the personality or the restaurateur and stands out amid the many formulaic rooms one sees around. On the day of our meal we were served by a friendly and upbeat waiter, and by the owner himself who may appear detached on first impression but is in fact totally charming.
A place to return to for the full menu.
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