For the last couple of years we have taken to celebrating Valentine's Day with lunch at the Omega - not wanting to risk the often frenetic and slapdash lovey-dovey dinners in local restaurants. As always, we were impressed by the skill and service on display: Baldwin's, with the eponymous David at the helm, and head chef Stephen Rosebuck in the kitchen, runs like clockwork. Breads - the loaves are baked in the kitchen and left for you to cut on the table, then wrapped up to take home - were excellent. My roast beef, served pink and carved at the table, was exquisite. My wife's roast cod with scallops was well-judged and tasty. Dessert, a lovely rice pudding oddly served barely warm and a St Clement's pudding, was good. Really, this place is an object lesson in how to serve good food to many people really well. With functions getting fewer due to the economic squeeze they now do a bistro evening on the second Wednesday of the month.