I shall miss the genial, welcoming charm of Steak+'s erstwhile proprietor, who has vanished like a puff of smoke to pastures unknown. He had a splendid, rather eccentric old-world presence. So you don't feel as if you've wandered into the exotic realms of a Lawrence Durrell or Olivia Manning novel any more. Shame. The good news is that the food at Steak+ still represents sound value. The new regime's two-course £7 set lunch was splendid at the second try (the first go suffered from oversalting.) Try the Minute Steak, which was generously sized, and decorated with a competent dijonnais sauce. The decor has been standardised a bit so the furniture is more orthodox and less interesting, but that's a minor detail. This place is still a great place to retreat for a tasty, inexpensive lunch or dinner. Watch that salt though!
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