Introduction

This review is aimed at giving you a quick and honest guide to visiting seven of the lakes and some tips on visiting other places of interest.

During the summer months if you want to visit any of the lakes or major attractions my advice is not to start your day too late in the morning, if you are driving and this is particularly true of lake Windermere. However there are oasis of calm, read on.

Wastwater

This lake is out in the West of the county and requires a bit of effort to get there - you will be rewarded. Unless you are staying close to the lake, then I strongly recommend an early start. When I could get a signal on the maps app, I was taken on a ride or terror on single track and sometimes unmaintained roads, a city car, in a procession of 4 by 4s. It was well worth the effort and I was rewarded for my early start with a parking spot right on the lake shore. In my mind this is the most beautiful of all of the lakes, sitting in the region of England's highest mountains. Views on the lake surrounded by mountains are spell binding. A picturesque stone bridge sits over a fresh stream that empties into the lake. Although camping is not permitted some quietly do and don't seem to be causing any harm. The pleasure of cooling my feet in the lake as the sun rose higher in the sky was really relaxing. The good news is - if you make the effort to get here, this is one lake you can walk around without have to cross farmer Giles's land. A bit later on in the day the canoeists and water sports people arrive to enjoy in their own peaceful way, this short, deep and mysterious lake. Please note that unless you go to Wasdale head, there are not facilities here.

Rydal Water

Is one of the smaller lakes and not far from Windermere but it scores much more highly in the beauty stakes. It has a more impressive and mountainous backdrop and you can walk around one full side of the lake. There is a delightful river than runs close to the White Moss car park and after a long walk, dunking ones feet into the clear waters is magical. I never did find the cave above the lake, but there is one there, somewhere. There are a couple of small car parks, so don't think you can arrive after lunch and get a spot. There are toilet facilities but no cafes or shops, so best to bring your own and of course take your trash back home with you.

Grasmere

A stones throw from Rydal, Grasmere lake is a bit of a hike from Grasmere village. The village is endearing with a few shops including a Beatrix Potter shop, a cafe on the river and a few other places to eat. There is a tiny and famous gingerbread shop. Parking is a bit pot luck. If you can park in the school, that's a really neat spot, but get there early. There are other small car parks that rapidly fill. There is a field on the edge of the village that can also be opened up for parking and there is also causal parking outside of the village. Part of Grasmere lake is not accessible to the public, hence the long hike to the bankside. Once there though there are quite a few spots where you can sit and swim or take in the natural beauty.

Thirlmere

This is in fact two natural lakes merged into one giant reservoir. It is a pity this glorious mountain lake is not more accessible because it has a primeval feel about it, wooded, remote and mountainous. There are some walks down from the road where there are a few pay and display sport and in places you can scramble down to the lake shore. There are a couple of small waterfalls, although difficult to see, are nevertheless wonderful. More could be done to improve access to and views of the lake which are often obscured. There are warning signs about the dangers of swimming here, due to the constant coldness of the water. I would also recommend could grip walking shoes or boots as even though there are well defined paths, it is easy to slip.

Derwentwater

This is one of the more popular lakes at the North end of the county but easy to get to from Kendal or Windermere. Don't start out too late though! The town of Keswick sits close to the lake which I have heard can be a bit wild west at night. However during the day, it is a really nice place, to wander, grab lunch or a coffee.

The lake is about a 15-20 minute walk from the town centre, though there is a car park near the lake side. Derwentwater is a far more picturesque and cleaner looking lake than either Windermere or Coniston. Its more mountainous and natural looking. Although there are good bank side walks and boat rides, like some of the other lakes, a lot of land is in private hands which seems strange for a national park. From the town you can walk about half a mile before having to join a well appointed walkway that circumnavigates marshland before you rejoin the lake. A good day out, Keswick and the lake.

Lake Windermere

Windermere may be the largest, most famous and most popular of the lakes, but I must say it is was underwhelming. The lake is portrayed on TV as peaceful and relaxed and this is rather misleading for it is choked with tourists and does not have the same mountainous backdrop of the other lakes. Much of the lake district is inaccessible to the general public as much of the land is privately owned. While this may benefit the environment it confines tourists to small, crowded pockets on some but not all of the lakes.

Ambleside - Lake Windermere

Please note there are really two Ambleside's, the village and the part of the town that sits on the lake. Ambleside village is well worth a visit in its own right, with a decent little bakery, some decent cafes, shops and a quirky old stone house bridging a little river (almost runs dry in the summer). The Ambleside by the lake you see on Country file is a good 25 minute and ugly walk from the village. If you want a parking space here you had better start out early in the day. This is where the boats and ferries depart from and parking is pretty limited. Please note pre-booking on-line of boat trips seems to be required at the moment. There is a decent cafe on the shore, a chip shop that charged me well over £1 for a can of coke, a couple of decent pubs, a shell and trinket shop run by a guy from Blackpool and for some reason a pet shop. Now all of this activity is in a very confined space, even if you include the adjacent lake side park and fields beyond. My tip would be to visit Ambleside by the lake in the evening, it is easier to park and has a real nice ambience about it around the pubs as the sun goes down.

Coniston

Coniston lake is not far from Windermere but on a long winding road journey. It is a bit prettier than Windermere and its waters cleaner. It seems more popular with causal watersports folk and swimmers. A river cuts down from Coniston village into the lake. When I visited there was a real mix of people there, from the young and beautiful, to couples and even a large group with a barbecue going. Where Coniston wins out over Windermere, is less people, more space and a generally more attractive place. Coniston village is between 20 minutes and 30 minutes away on foot, though there is some parking at the lake. The village is fairly pretty has a few decent looking pubs and takeaways. It has a calmer feel about it. The only negative here was the grumpy girl serving in the garage, no serving is the wrong word.

Other Places of Interest

Ulverston

A small town in the South West of the county best known as the birthplace of Stan Laurel. There is a fine sculpture of 20th Century comedy legends Laurel and Hardy close to the museum dedicated to them. There is even a little sculpture of the dog Laughing Gravey, tugging at Ollie's trousers. The Laurel and Hardy museum is worth a visit if you are in the area for an hour or so. It is a bit sparse but has various costumes, film clips, photos, a collection of vintage products and even what it purported to be the bed on which Stan Laurel was born. Ulverston has a few places to eat or to get takeaways. I wanted to call out to the ice cream parlour, real value for money and great.

Arnside

Arnside was recommended to me if I wanted fish and chips by the seaside. A short drive from Kendal it is a good place to catch some evening sun and those fish and chips. Its a fairly pretty hamlet with a couple of shops, decent looking pubs and some lovely walks on the shoreline. There is also a rather quaint rail line that crosses the bridge over the estuary.

Morecombe

Is another good stop for evening fish and chips and an ice cream. It too is a short drive from Kendal. However, don't expect much else here for this art deco town is mostly in mothballs, even on the promenade during high season, such a pity. Still the beach is popular with local youngsters who seem harmless enough. There is a spookily life like sculpture of comedian Eric Morecombe on the promenade and it is such a pity, he is alone here, without his comedy partner Ernie Wise. Parking was not a problem here, but only because this is a place in decline, the local council cannot even be bothered to to maintain a small garden on the beach front. Sure it will never compete with Blackpool down the coast, but being so close to the lakes it is such a waste. From my point of view it had fish and chips an ice cream van a few slot machine arcades, so I was happy.

I have visited the Lake District many, many times; the scenery is fantastic and the towns welcoming.

However, at the moment I can only say STAY AWAY. Keswick is so crowded as to be unbearable, Kendal is traffic, traffic, traffic. Every layby between the two was full, and the standard of driving we saw was appalling, especially from motorcyclists frustrated with the traffic.

On a Tuesday evening we tried to find somewhere to eat out in Kendal. Everywhere was either closed (presumably the businesses haven't survived the lockdowns), not serving food (!), or fully booked until late in the evening. And this is BEFORE the COVID restrictions are relaxed and BEFORE the school holidays.

Having just spent the week exploring Northumbria, equally lovely countryside, but far fewer holidaymakers, I wish I had stayed east of the Pennines!