You reach the end of the road at Peter Pan: you could, perhaps, travel farther, beyond, but it would be "adventure" rather than "vacation". Madagascar itself is far from anyplace you care to name -- mysterious and exotic. And then, twenty four hours away from Tana by taxi brousse, an hour's speed-boat jaunt away from Toliara's languid port, lies a village of fishing pirogues and small off-shore islands under a cloudless azure sky. That's Anakao. And at the edge of the village, beyond which the empty beach stretches forever, sits the most amazing oasis of tranquility: that's Peter Pan. The best places you'll always find at the edge of the world and Peter Pan is no exception.
This isn't some five-star whatchawannacallit. It ain't your typical tropical hideaway under swaying palm trees (hint: there's no palm trees in southwestern Madagascar). It's not a backpacker hangout -- not exactly anyway. I wouldn't call it a dive resort, though guests apparently rave about the diving. I don't know what to call it, but people come for a couple days and stay a week... some stay even longer. Most vow to return and not a few do. It's the atmosphere, the mood of the place, the food they serve there straight from the sea, the late-night conversations, the music, the feeling like time has stopped or lost any significance.
If you go to Madagascar, wherever you end-up, you'll no doubt hear about Peter Pan. Make time to go there. Jump on that speed boat, even though you might have doubts about whether it might be worth the hassle. Check it out. Nobody I've met has been disappointed by Anakao. There's other places to stay there, obviously, but Peter Pan has soul and vibrancy. The other places, frankly, don't. Go for a couple days and expect to change your plans, linger longer.
Hire a boat for a day to take you to the offshore islets. Try the snorkeling there -- when the tides are right, it can be like an aquarium. Have a picnic. Never in your life will you enjoy fresher seafood. If you dive, go diving. Explore the village. Swing in a hammock all afternoon. Get a massage. Stroll the beach at sunset: walk south and continue walking, cold beer in-hand. It's all low-key, non-adrenaline inducing, and perfectly blissful. After you go home, this will be the Madagascar you remember.
- Official Description (provided by the hotel):
- hotel with bungalows of white stone to two plans equipped with bathroom and private shower, terrace, sofa, read comfortable. the restaurant proposes French malagasy Italian cuisine. ... more less