There is not a lot of convention here. The decor is eclectic and kind of defies any standard descriptors. Other than a missing online reservation (it turned up a week later), the service was prompt, friendly and knowledgeable.
But this is not a place for service or decor or jazz music, it's a place for off-the-hook edgy cooking. Who thinks of putting foie gras in a dumpling? It's the most insane gyoza ever, served on a delicious bed of crispy cress and cilantro. There is a traditional enough papaya salad with wicked dressing, which came by mistake and stayed. A selection of dumplings comes too. The seafood dumplings are served with a great peanut sauce and the smoked chicken dumplings are served beside a coconut milk, hoisin and ginger sauce that works beautifully.
The mains shine too and the portions are ridiculously large. Not a table leaves without an elaborate tin foil scultpture stuffed with leftovers. The cornish hen is roasted perfectly, stuffed with sticky rice and served with lovely vegetables. The only thing I could recommend on this is, perhaps, quartering it in the kitchen or at table. It's awfully hard to take it apart on the cramped, overfull plate.
The tandoori spiced steak is enormous and comes with mashed potatoes. The daily specials on our night included a braised half bunny with lots of thyme, one end stuffed with prosciutto. Drunken noodles have wide eggs noodles in a dull broth with some fun surprises like dill pickle slices, tomatillos and some marvelous dumplings. There are mussels and veggies and, sadly, a tragically overcooked piece of grouper on top. Not rocking the house but someone is having a great time cooking this stuff.
There's a nice wine list, though we stuck to pop. The cranberry juice disappointed with a sticky, aspartame concoction, but the water glasses (two halves of martini shakers) were refilled faithfully.
This is a great place to come back to for adventurous, often courageous cooking and a menu that's as much fun to read as it is to sample.
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