Citerna's not on the beaten track, you need to drive a dozen or so km from Sansepolcro or Citta di Castello. But the drive is worth it. Within the fortress' ramparts is an oasis of colour and light and welcome and taste that is Le Civette. Beautifully decorated with amusing touches (books scattered around the room and on the tables), the welcome is friendly but not overwhelming. The menu is short and changes (a point to look for in this part of the world if you're thinking of lingering a while and returning to familiar spots). Swordfish was my most recent secondo, truly unusual in Umbria!; nicely and not over- cooked with herbs. The accompanying Arezzo wine Occioli was superb. The panna cotta great. Two course plus dessert and wine for 30 euros is par for the course. The restaurant has been rather quiet in the past but seems well-patronised now; it deserves to be.
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