A visit to this seemingly simple church was nearly the most inspiring experience I had in Georgia.

The town of Mtskheta, once Iberian capital, presently in the UNESCO World Heritage List, is so close to Tbilisi, that even if you don’t have much time for the sightseeing, make sure you at the very least go there to see Jvari Church.

Jvari Monastery (The Church of the Holy Cross) is one of the oldest and most famous Georgian sanctuaries, one of the most sacred places. However, you won’t encounter any hassle here whatsoever, be that about your dressing or taking pictures (see my review of Bodbe near Signaghi to compare). Entrance is free of charge.

Jvari Monastery in its present look was built between 586 and 604 by Stepanoz (Stephen) I of the Guaramid ruling dynasty of Iberia. It was erected on the location of an earlier church, known as «Small Church of Jvari», the ruins of which can be still seen near the monastery. The Small Jvari Church was, in turn, built over the place where the Equiapostolic Nino, the Enlightener of Georgia, established a wooden cross on the sight of a pagan temple. With time, it started to attract pilgrims thus turning the entire place into a sacred one hence raising the need for a monastery.

The interior of the church is rather rough and simple; you won’t find any impressive frescoes or richly decorated altar there. Yet this simplicity suggests some peace and calmness. Due to the inner height the church looks very spacious inside.

These days it must be revived as an acting sanctuary: while we were there, along with some other tourists, few people obviously came specifically for prayers.

The Jvari Church has a breathtaking location on the top of the hill, as if arising from it, and is very well seen from wherever you approach it. It’s possible to drive up almost to the monastery (there’s a small lot where the cars can park, for free), with just a short walk up the hill then.

Once you are up there, you will be rewarded with stunning views over the old capital of Mtskheta and Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in its very heart and of the amasing confluence of the the Aragvi and the Mtkvari (Kura) rivers (the Russian-speakers would remember it from Mikhail Lermontov’s Mtsyri poem).