We stayed in Koutouloufari, and hired quad bikes for a trip up to the Lasithi Plateau. On the way up to the Plateau Em & Em is just on the right just after you leave the village of Avdou, and is a great place to stop for a drink and a snack on your way up and on the way back. Excellent ice creams. Very clean and smart place, but not pricey, run by English Emma and her Cretan husband Manolis (hence "Em & EM"). I'd definitely recommend this place.
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