I have enjoyed C.P. Challet's cooking for years. He is old school in the best of ways; he is in the kitchen, he watches over every plate, and he brings a wealth of knowledge about the origins of dishes and the wine pairings. Other chefs are more flashy but none are more skillful and passionate. A place like Ici Bistro must be supported and appreciated while they last because, unfortunately, the faddish places might soon smother the truly great.
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