This is my favourite stretch of road in the rockies. The natural beauty you encounter is amazing. I have done it in the passenger seat, the drivers seat and also from a tourist bus, and it never gets old. Athabasca Glacier, is a must do at least once. I am yet to do some of the hikes out there though i'm told they are fantastic. If you have time, hire a car and drive it yourself but take your time, Brewster (being the only company with rights to the Parkway) usually will not stop if wildlife is seen and with a car you can stop as frequent as you want. My favourite viewpoint is at the top of the Icefields Parkway Valley.
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