This is a comfortable and easy-going place five or six blocks from the Zoc on one of the quieter streets in the neighborhood. It’s pretty informal (there is a ridiculously little dog running around, a couple tropical birds, and a pair of turtles) so if you need a new towel every day, move on. But the place is clean, there is plenty of hot water, and the hosts are really friendly (they don’t speak English, but we were able to communicate just fine). Breakfast is inarguably Mexican, that is, tortillas and black beans. The extended family lives in the compound, so it is a bustling place sometimes. We were there with our two kids (1.5 and 3) who could run around safely, gawk at the animals and play with the other kids.
One night the family was having a birthday party which went on after we had gone to bed. Granted, we go to bed early (two kids, what can you do), but it was a little tough falling asleep that night.
One of the neighbors in the compound gives a cooking class which I took. At 200 pesos it was fantastic and I highly recommend it. Ask for Magdalena.