Martinique is expensive, restaurants, even unassuming beach huts, are very expensive. Local cuisine is mostly found in not so great touristy restaurants, where you can meet all the other people freshly off the plane or the cruiseship. And then there are some places like Chez Geneviève (central market hall of Fort-de-France, first floor, right hand side).
A review of Chez Geneviève could really be very short: rum punch, starter, main course, wine, dessert, 14.50 euro, what else would one need to know? But let us be slightly less materialistic: first of all there is the atmosphere, the restaurant is on the first floor of the Fort-de-France main market where while eating one can observe people doing their daily shopping, fruit and vegetables - or all sorts of flavoured rum (and there are even some souvenir stalls).
The service at Chez Geneviève is friendly and most of the time fast. However, this is not a high-end eatery, so if you are after linen tablecloths, this is the wrong place. On the other hand if you are on holiday, you might like the discount coupons on your paper place mat.
While it is possible to have a main course for only 9 euro, it is really the set menu which should be recommended: punch or planters punch (or juice if you really insist), a starter, "accras" most of the time, and a main course from the board: fish, cooked or fried, octopus, chicken, accompanied by rice, red beans and various "legumes pays" (yams, bananas and such). Drinks with the main course, either wine or beer, are included and to conclude there is a choice between coffee or dessert.
The menu does not vary much, but the staples are always enjoyable. I would particularly recommend the "macadam" (cod in sauce with rice) – and if this is too bland for your taste, you can always spice it up with some "piment confit".
In short, there are four or five at first sight rather similar restaurants in the Fort-de-France central market, but Chez Geneviève is ahead in terms of food, service and location.
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