Gourmet it's not. Seating is cramped, tables are small. But on a Sunday night when most restaurants are either 3/4 empty or closed, Portofino is mostly full. They do good old-fashioned Italian food and they do it (mostly) very well. Salads are very generous size for the price by Bermuda standards, and very fresh. Caesar salad is plain (no bacon or pancetta, no cheese, plain croutons). A "10-inch" seafood pizza was actually 14 inches in diameter, thin crisp crust -- plainly made on site -- and loaded with lots of calamari, shrimp, bay scallops, clams, mussels, and chunks of lobster. Cannelloni was generously stuffed with equal parts of tasty ground veal and fresh spinach, and the plain tomato sauce was very rich and the mozzarella is salt-free -- bocconcini, perhaps?
House wine was delicious and very cheap for Bermuda, and a cup of decaf coffee had a richer flavour than most restaurants' regular coffee. If you don't mind the plainness of the food and lack of fashionable gourmet seasonings, or the tight quarters, Portofino is a great bargain. No wonder it's so popular!
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