We set out to eat at Le Relais D'Olea, with this as back-up should Le Relais be full. We followed signs to it, but the Place du Thouron had only one restaurant - with two frontages. La Gloire had taken over Le Relais.
Eating in the Place du Thouron is just like being the middle of a set at the Olivier (National Theatre, London). There is the restored fountain in the middle - four spouts falling into buckets of roses. Huge plane trees form a canopy high over your head. Three "roads" - all cobbled and too narrow for modern traffic, and two sets of steps lead into the square from different angles, up and down. The old lavoir is gently illuminated near the fountain. Tables that must seat around a hundred fill the space and the place fills with a gentle hubbub of voices all enjoying the evening...
... but hardly any are French. That tells you a lot about the place. The food doesn't quite reach average. Perhaps it has fallen off with the lack of competition? The service is efficient and friendly and the prices OK.
It could be our choices of food from the 39 euro menu - but serving a pair of roasted tomatoes with every dish lacks imagination. I had a good maigret du canard - but six indifferent vegetables killed much of the pleasure.
What did look good - served at other tables - was the steak - frites from la carte. Just have that and a coffee (the deserts were a disappointment too) and you'll probably have agreat evening.
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