This was our third lunch and the excellent standard consistent. Where to start? Amuse bouche: Tempura langoustine, hot, cockles in a jelly that was so flavoursome (could have eaten a bucketful) and a chilled veg. veloute. Menus 44 & 28. A starter you must look out for, which probably features most days but changes the description (despite an English translation) is a warm emulsion of langoustine which is very intense with another layer on top, of a set vegetable cream. Once it was fennel another time dill. One time it was all disguised in a description of 'a bed of braised leeks, poached egg on the top with a langoustine emulsion'. This heavenly offering was presented like a scallop with a tuille leaning over to suggest a scallop's top shell just open. I have never encountered such a creation and would toy with having this three times instead of a meal it is just SO good. I did ask Monsieur Frappier how to make it and I got the gist ('take a litre of cream....' and then take up jogging for a fortnight) Cannelloni of crab: neither pasta, nor hot. The body was a thin envelope of a delicate red jelly filled with the very finest white meat of crab (the head) The accompanying bits of salad and blobs of sauce made this an experience of subtly and surprise. If you want something more rustic, the fish soup is maison and very hearty.The main chosen on the 44 was turbot and a good size and what was served with it complimented the King of Fish, not competed with it. Cheese on this menu had a staggering 10/12 choices and the waiter was happily preparing to cut as many as we wanted. (an array of forks and knives intended to cut each separately) I didn't take a dessert but the one chosen by other half is worth flagging up in this review as being outstanding. An oblong sweet base and three squares of a lime and cream concoction with a lime sorbet on the side.
It had been our intention to stay overnight but dates we wanted were n/a but we looked at a room and will certainly strive to do so and have time for this fab fayre at dinner time and only have to totter upstairs afterwards.
Crozon is about an hour and a half's drive from Roscoff and if it would fit your travel itinerary, fit it in at all costs.
The menus at H de la Mer encompass a variety of tastes and the pork two ways is simple and un-poncey. Here is a talent that is quite exceptional and M. Frappier would have every right to swan about with a large head but that isn't his way and he pops out of the kitchen with a big smile to check that his diners are happy. Wine list good, service from happy staff.
Saw a review comment about slow service. This last time there were two groups of at least twelve having lunch and service was very efficient and deft. Breakfast moaner: 11 euros is below the going rate and if you get eggs and cold meat too for this price, trust me you are doing well!
- Official Description (provided by the hotel):
- Hostellerie de la Mer, located within the Pininsula of Crozon, in the traditional port of Le Fret, is a charming Hotel Logis with a restaurant facing the bay of Brest. With a view on the sea for some of the room, you will enjoy your trip to the ends of the earth at the extreme tip of Brittany. ... more less
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