We visited Nyalam in October but even then the temperature was freezing. We were taken up stairs and given a room with three beds. Each had sheets, blankets and a quilt. There were also a couple of little cupboards in the room. Our room at this guesthouse was really no warmer than the outside temperature. A member of staff returned to supply us with a thermos of hot water so we could make ourselves a cuppa.
The staff member showed us along narrow passageways (that resembled a rabbit warren) to the toilet/wash room. We had been warned about accommodation in these parts but it was even more basic than we expected. The bathroom consisted of two long troughs with several taps over the troughs. There was no running water at that stage although there was during the night. The toilets are horrifying for Westerners. There was one toilet for the men and one for the ladies, alongside each other. Both were squat toilets. There was no flushing system and no toilet paper. A large container of water with a jug had to be used to flush the toilets. There was no hot water and no shower. There was also no privacy whatsoever in this communal area. All three of us wondered how we would find this washroom in the night. Would there be any lights on? Whilst taking Diamox tablets (for altitude sickness) you need to use the loo a lot more than normal so our concerns were legitimate. There actually were dim lights at night so we were able to negotiate the rabbit warren quite OK.
The beds weren’t particularly comfortable but there was adequate bed linen to keep warm providing you got yourself warm before climbing into bed.
There is a room much like a lounge where staff, guides and drivers tend to congregate and this had a yak dung heater in the middle putting out a small amount of heat. We stayed in there for a while to try to warm ourselves. There were people in there that we thought may have been the owners watching a TV.
In general the place is exceedingly cold and draughty. I think from memory we wore our knitted hats and our gloves in bed to try to keep warm. In the morning we found it had been snowing, which is very early in the year for this area.
Downstairs is a café where we purchased dinner and breakfast. Breakfast was Tibetan bread with eggs. Tibetan bread is much like what we call pita bread and the eggs were omelettes. Please note you will eat a lot of omelettes in Tibet. It was very basic food but perfectly edible.
Nyalam is a tiny village with the highway running through the middle of it. I doubt there would be anywhere much better to stay in the place. There is an internet café opposite the guesthouse but our son said the internet was so slow it was hopeless.
- Also Known As:
- Adun Guest House Nyalam County, Tibet, China