We were at Chitvan Jungle Lodge from 14 to 18 March, having come by road from Pench Jungle Camp. The lodge and Kanha National Park are far from any supply source -- truly a place apart. Shortly following our arrival, lodge manager Ashwani invited us to visit a family among villagers who had been relocated from the park under auspices of Project Tiger. We brought food staples as gifts, and family members were pleased to show us their house and garden. Ashwani's efforts help maintain positive relationships between local people and the park & Chitvan.
Our suite at Chitvan was one of two on a 2nd story with a view over other lodge buildings and gardens that yield its fresh produce. From our spacious balcony, we entered a nicely furnished sitting room with a rocker and comfortable chair & writing desk as well as sofa & coffee table. This opened into a large bedroom with a king-sized bed flanked by nightstands, a cabinet containing a fridge and topped with a basket of snacks, and table & two chairs by huge windows in the wall opposite the bed. The bedroom and bath were separated by a small room furnished with a mirrored armoire, luggage stand, and laundry basket. The large bathroom featured a long counter with twin sinks, tub, toilet, and glass-enclosed shower.
After beverages & biscuits were brought to our room at 0500, we joined Chitvan naturalist Sanjay and driver Mehesh as the only guests in their gypsy for the short trip to Kanha's Mukki gate where we joined the obligatory queue of gypsies awaiting credential checking and assignments of park guides prior to entering. This procedure was somewhat streamlined by the lodge having made copies of our passports the day before. Two features unique to Kanha, contrasted with three other parks we visited, were the inclusion of women among its park guides, and morning game drives that could extend for nearly six glorious hours. During our drive we saw Hanuman langurs, crested serpent eagle, shikra, Indian scops owl, and several groups of hard-ground barasingha, a subspecies of swamp deer found only in Kanha and therefore a compelling reason for visiting this park. We also saw guar and a jungle cat. A highlight of our morning drive was our excellent packed breakfast.
At lunch, which was set up on the restaurant porch, Chitvan's chef Ajay inquired as to our choices for dinners. Following our afternoon game drive which ran from 1515 until 1815, Ajay presented a Continental dinner highlighted by excellent French fries. Dinner the following evening was Chinese with a tasty noodle dish. Ajay was very attentive at meals, taking a personal interest in our preferences.
During three full days of game drives, we saw four deer species including sambar, spotted deer or cheetal, and Indian muntjac or barking deer, in addition to barasingha. We saw many wild boar and an array of interesting birds, but neither we nor any other park visitor during this period saw a tiger. During our final morning game drive, Sanjay learned that mahouts had found a tiger and placed us in position to ride the first elephant taking visitors into the forest to see an alert four-year-old tigress lying mostly in view some distance from a road as all of Kanha's tigers seemed to have been doing. For our last breakfast, Sanjay and Mehesh took us up onto the plateau known as Bamhnidadar, the highest point in Kanha.
In many respects we found Chitvan and Kanha a place apart. Both seemed to be run in a more visitor-friendly manner than we encountered in other parks. Only at Chitvan was our accommodation an entire well-furnished suite. Only Chitvan assigned a naturalist and the same driver to accompany just ourselves on every game drive. Only at Chitvan did the head chef repeatedly visit with us at our table and prepare special meals for us. Only at Chitvan did the lodge manager take us to meet local people, affirming their relationship with the lodge, the park, and its visitors. Only at Kanha did we find women among the park's guides, game drives that could extend for entire mornings, and an environment in which sounds were generally attributable to nature.