While we were in Sicily, we were driving the inland from Modica to Catania, noticed the little town of Chiaramonte Gulfi on the map and decided to drive up the hill and find a place for lunch. It's about a fifteen or twenty minute side trip from the highway. We asked a couple of locals where to go and both of them responded "U Damussu." It's on a little street just off the main plaza. It was one of our best meals in Sicily. The waiter was charming and helpful and the food was excellent. The pork-mushroom risotto was top-notch, the grilled vegetables as good as anywhere but the piece de resistence was the "stinco de maiale" which is a braised/roasted pork shank. Also, don't miss the appetizer of samples of the local air-cured ham, salami and pork in aspic. Don't pass by Chiaramonte Gulfi if you're hungry.
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