We escaped the heat of Bordeaux with a train ride to the Arcachon Basin. Be warned. This place isn't in Arcachon itself. Gujan Mestras is two stops earlier, probably about four or five miles east. Develop your appetite with a stroll past the oyster fishermen's huts (most of which offer tastings) then return to family run Les Viviers. Sit on a platform overlooking the water, enjoy the relaxed, friendly service, and plan your meal. There is an extensive a la carte. A few dishes for meat eaters, virtually nothing for vegetarians. There are a few set menus. And of course there are plates of oysters and crustacea, plus a wide range of platters of mixed fruits de mer. What seaside France is all about.
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