Entering the village by foot requires a real climb-- Berdún is a walled town built on a flat plateau overlooking the Aragon River. The hotel is in the corner of the square opposite the parish church, and has been converted from an old house. As well as to pilgrims, it caters primarily to Spanish travellers visiting family, and to those with business in the town. The manager had remembered me from my visit in 2005 and introduced me to family members working there.
I was given a room two floors up from the plaza, overlooking the square and the handsome late mediaeval parish church. It was plain but adequate and good value for 22€, and had charming french windows looking east. Television reception was spotty.
For my lunch, the first-floor restaurant provided me with a properly-cooked plate of trout with local wine for 12€. There are no other restaurants in the village, so I returned for my dinner and tried a plate of roast pork with a smooth local red wine.
Breakfast is not usually served at an early hour in Spain, but a staff member opened the cafe early for me to provide me with some rolls and coffee and fresh orange juice to send me on my way the next morning.